Saturday 25 April 2009

North Walk: A Walking Week - Port Isaac to Hayle - Day 2- Trevone to Newquay

Day 2 Tuesday March 17th: As the Sole occupant at The Well Parc, Trevone - I felt a bit guilty that someone came in specially to cook my breakfast - I would have done it myself if they'd asked.
After she had cleared up, she cleared off - and the place seemed deserted. I didn't make a good start to the day - was half way down the road back to the path when I realised that the Room Key was still in my pocket - went back - only a friendly dog to greet me - gave him the key and set off again. Got to the beach and realised that my water bottle was still sitting back in my room. Tramped back in a huff - had to get the dog to let me back into my room - and made my third exit. If I'd been a scouser and not had 18 miles to walk - I could have left with the 42" wide plasma screen strapped to my back!

It was another scorcher of a day as I finally made my way, Newquay was my destination. A little further on from Trevone was Harlyn Bay and on the way, I passed a large flock of Oyster catchers quite close to shore plus another "Round Hole". I didn't look in it, but I hoped it wasn't full of Tesco shopping trolleys and fridges! Looking back - you got the best view of Trevone's Round Hole - like a scar on the cliff face.
For some miles - I had been able to see the light house at Trevose Head - and this was my first point to head for. Having rounded Cataclews Point there was the unusual sight of Padstow Lifeboat Station - seemingly built into the cliffs in the middle of nowhere.

Around the point and the Lighthouse was reached - built back in 1847 - it was a landmark that I would look back and see all day. a little further one - I was convinced that could see a Seal just off the rocks at Stinking Cove!. I spent quite awhile taking pictures - until I realised it was either a seal shaped rock - or a dead seal - still not sure which.

I was now heading due South with Mawgan Porth and then Newquay in my sights. The path passed behind the large bays of Booby's and Constantine which merged into each other -and were apparently unsafe for bathing - although they looked very inviting.

Between here and Portcothan were a series of small coves and inlets - and it was very scenic with dramatic rocks just off the beach - known as Minnows Islands.

I was soon at Portcothan, a small village which had a nice beach and was a lovely isolated spot. I didn't stop, and the path headed out towards the headland overlooking the small Trescore Islands.

The following few miles were hard work but also breathtakingly beautiful and included the wellknown landmark of Bedruthan Steps. This was my first visit, but I could see that in the Summer, it would be a major attraction - so I was pleased to see it with few people about, and on a sunny day. There were a series of sandy beaches with large rock stacks and small islets. From here, it was pretty much downhill all the way to Mawgan Porth. I was now underneath the flight path of incoming aircraft to Newquay Airport - and I was suprised at how frequent they were.
Mawgan Porth is one of North Cornwall's most popular spots and an ideal place for a coffee stop - one of the better Cappuccinno's was duly dispatched overlooking the large bay. As I left the bay - a couple of horses were taken onto the beach - and were being enticed into the sea - but it was pretty obvious that the horse did NOT want a paddle - so it was quite amusing watching the ensuing struggle - you can lead a horse to water, but you can't make it .....


A little further on, I reached the start of the long beach of Watergate Bay - one of the longest on this part of the coast. A popular surfing spot of course - it was so big - I couldn't see it ever being packed! A third of the way down the bay - the path crossed the road behind the well known Watergate Hotel where Jamie Oliver has his restaurant 15.

The path climbed back up to the tall cliffs and I now had Newquay in my sights and I was keen to get there in good time to find a suitable B&B. At the end of Watergate Bay was Trevelgue head and Porth Sands just on the outskirts of Newquay. There was a small wooden bridge which linked Trevelgue to the mainland and it used to be the site of an Iron Age castle.

I was now definitely away from Cornwall's natural beauty and had reached Cornwall's largest holiday resort - a mecca for the surfing brigade. By this time, I was well tired and looking forward to a hot bath and putting my feet up. The path eventually ended up on the main road into Newquay centre and I kept my eyes open for suitable accommodation. Down a small side road, I spotted a large and tired looking Hotel - it was cheap and cheerful - had a room with a bath - so that would do for me. The friendly old lady from up North on reception was a bit suprised at me hobbling about like a cripple, and even more suprised when I said that I had walked from Trevone, but then she probably never walks further than the Chip Shop.
Later on, I found a busy City centre pub doing a Steak and chips special with a Free Pint so I was well happy. The next day - I would head for Perranporth.

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