Another crack of dawn start - and I was at Barnstaple for 6:45am to catch the first bus to Ilfracombe. Had been looking at the weather forecast all week - and it was never going to be good - but I was hoping to remain dry for most of the day at least. I invested in a new Berghaus wet weather coat for good measure plus some waterproof trousers - so I was prepared or so I thought!
By the time the bus reached Ilfracombe, it was just before 8:00am and not raining. There was a very welcoming Coffee Bar just by the Bus Station at Ilfracombe, but I resisted the temptation thinking I would get one at Lee Bay - 4 miles up the coast - some hope - it was like the Marie Celeste - deader than the Norwegian Blue! The walk to Lee Bay was a nice one - although pretty up and down - plus, I got my first taste of rain. It was quite cold as well, so I had been looking forward to that cappuccino at Lee Bay, but all I got was more rain. It's supposed to be a very pretty village nestled in a wooded valley, but all I saw was the picturesque bay and a very closed looking hotel which was all boarded up for Winter. I pressed on heading for Woolacombe.
The first point of interest was Bull Point and the Lighthouse. It was at that stage that I was first aware of how strong the wind was. During the whole day - I was to walk round three very prominent Points, as the coastline did a 90 degree turn south and was totally exposed. At each one - I was literally nearly blown away. It was quite exhilarating, in a perverse sort of way. At one of them - I passed a frail looking old lady who I thought definitely looked like a candidate for being swept up and launched towards Bristol, so I had my camera at the ready, and I was already considering how many hits the footage might get on YouTube, but the moment passed without incident.
The second coastal point was Mortehoe which was just before the fabulous bay of Woolacombe.
Having walked the best part of 6 miles from Ilfracombe and hardly seen a soul - suddenly there seemed to be avid ramblers all over the place - and I could see why, as despite the weather, it was a beautiful area.
Woolacombe was the first of my two Hotel excursions of the day. The Watersmeet Hotel was a large establishment overlooking the bay - and very popular with the over 60's it seemed. I didn't endear myself to their cleaning staff by traipsing across the Wilton weave with my muddy boots and settling myself in the lounge bar. The Daily Telegraph's were slowly lowered as I disturbed the elevenses tranquility and generally lowered the tone of the place. "This isn't a Backpackers" I could hear the Major mutter! I finally found Manuel and tried to order a Cappuccino. It turned out that their modernisation programme hadn't quite reached the stage where the luxury of an Espresso machine was to be considered as essential - but the waiter thought that he might be able to do me a frothy milky number! I said that I would leave it to his discretion, and ended up with a boiling hot weak coffee in a glass that was so hot you needed an oven glove to lift it to your mouth!
Slightly refreshed, I left and headed around the back of Woolacombe Bay, through the large area of Dunes. It was starting to throw it down, and didn't really stop, for the next 3 hours. The new coat got a good christening in more ways than one. There were plenty of surfers catching the waves, although despite the weather the swell wasn't that large - probably because it was about low tide.
At the end of the Bay, the path headed around the back of Putsborough and out towards the well known Baggy Point. It was blowing a hooley at this point - and it was a case of head down and follow your nose- or bald head to be more accurate!
I was pleased to see that there were quite a few other walkers getting soaked as well - made me feel alot better. I managed to just about stay upright to get round Baggy point and from there you got a good view of Croyde Bay. By the time I got to the beach and Surfing area, I was deperate for a loo - and I only mention this, because it turned out that Croyde was 5 star rating when it came to these facilities. Maybe, all big surfing beaches are the same, but the individual Unisex lavatories were 1st class. They were very large and I did wonder whether the surfers like to take their boards with them, when performing such duties. In fact the toilet was so wonderfully spacious and dry, that I seriously considered eating my lunch there - but it didn't quite seem right somehow - I would have probably been breaking an EEC Health and Safety regulation.
From croyde - it was a fairly miserable few miles across the beach and round the coast to Saunton Sands. I was looking forward to reaching Saunton, as my guidebook said that the well known Saunton Sands Hotel welcomed all - including walkers. As to whether that included smelly soaking wet windswept baldheaded walkers, I was yet to find out! The walk along Saunton Down gave great views down the length of Saunton Sands - another massive beach with flat sands and waves rolling in. Finally the path ended at the road across from where was the 5 STAR hotel. I trudged across the car park heading for the Glass doors of the reception looking forward to a warm welcome.
The two Doorman in full regalia eyed me through the glass. I think only Saddam Hussein or possibly Gazza would have been received with less enthusiasm. I can only imagine the sight that I looked - I had my baseball cap on underneath the large hood of my waterproof - soaking wet shorts, bright red nettle rashed legs and boots covered with sand. I could see in their eyes that they were dreading the thought that I might just be hoping to enter the 5 STAR Establishment. What they knew, and I didn't - was that a Posh wedding reception was in full flow - and beautiful people in beautiful clothes were adorning their beautiful hotel. The last thing they wanted was a smelly steaming sand splattered old sod tramping around in soaking wet socks spoiling the general ambience as well as the furniture!
However - I gave them one of my best smiles - and said " Shall I take my boots off?" - "Oh yes please Sir, if you wouldn't mind Sir" - I like a bit of subservience now and again especially when I am looking like I have just crawled out of a sewer - fair play to the man - a professional through and through. "Where shall I go" I said - and before they could answer in a rude manner, "which bar"?
Unfortunately, there was no hiding place - and I "adorned" the main bar with it's stunning views - with Wedding guests milling about, I tried to hide away as best I could. I was going to have a Cream tea - but that suddenly seemed inappropriate. At one point - the very handsome bride and groom were escorted right past me to head out onto the very windswept patio for some photographs - with two photographers in attendance. Not missing an opportunity for a Blog photo - I leapt up and got a couple of pics of them as they came back - which must have seemd quite bizarre from an onlookers point of view, but it amused me no end.
Another reason for stopping at the Hotel, was the fact that it was also a Bus stop - so after a Pint and a packet of crisps - I was on my way back to Barnstaple. Another 15 miles or so done. Wet and hungry - I was looking forward to getting home. Sunday looked pretty much the same weather wise - so I didn't head back - but will do next week - and I will be heading for Westward Ho - and maybe a Cream tea!!!
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