Sunday 19 October 2008

North Walk; Saunton Sands to Bideford

Saturday October 11th - another dawn visit to Barnstaple Bus Station for the first bus back to Saunton Sands Hotel, where resisting the temptation to pop back in and say hello, I headed for the massive beach. There are a few alternative paths for this stretch- but the easiest route was to walk along the sands which stretch out for 3.5 miles! The sun was just rising and it was a beautiful cloudless sky, so the misty early light was superb. There were plenty of other early risers at the Hotel end - mostly joggers and surfers, but as I got further along towards Braunton Burrows, the place was deserted. At this point you are entering the mouth of the Taw Estuary, and for the next two days, I would be walking the complete stretch of both the Taw and Torridge Estuaries and around the headland to Westward Ho.

As I walked along Saunton Sands, I had a good view of Westward Ho and Appledore across the water illuminated by the rising sun. The tide was going out, and for most of the day, I was looking out over the mud flats of the estuary which was a haven for birds.

My target for the day was Appledore - or at least Bideford - and as it was going to be pretty level walking all the way - I was confident of racking up my longest daily mileage so far.

Walking through Braunton Burrows Reserve was all very scenic in the early morning light - and then the path headed down a tributary towards Braunton and around the perimeter of the Royal Marines base of Chivenor who use the Burrows for live firing practise, and apparently the Americans used it as a battle training area during the 2nd World war. I emerged unscathed and headed along the long cycle track into Barnstaple. The path was also the Tarka Trail and a very popular Cycle track. In the summer, it is a bit like Piccadily Circus apparently, without the black cabs! I was suprised at the number of abandoned boats - areas of the estuary were a bit like a tip, but it was probably heightened by the low tide.

By the time I got to Barnstaple - about 11.15am , I felt like I had done a days walk! - not sure why - but I had been pushing it. Had what I thought was going to be a quick coffee stop at a large establishment on the quay at Barnstaple which turned out to be run by a couple of hapless young guys whose speciality turned out to be burning teacakes. The burnt smell which pervaded the whole establishment, wasn't a great advertisement, but I thought I would be safe ordering a Cappuccino. " It might be a while" I was told. My reply of "Will it be ready today, or shall I come back in the morning" wasn't received as well as I had hoped, but then he was busy burning a teacake at the time.
I reckoned then that at a push, I could make it to Bideford, catch the bus back to Barnstaple, drive home and still just about make it in time for the England v Khazakstan game - life's all about timing!

The path from Barnstaple was again on the cycle track and I was looking at pretty much the same scenery but from the other side of the estuary. For the most part, it followed the old Railway line and at Fremington Quay, the old station had been turned into a busy cafe and restaurant.

The next milestone was going to be Instow which was down the Torridge Estuary which was an offshoot from the main Taw Estuary and at this point, I was definitely flagging. Along the way, the path went through an RSPB reserve and I met a professional looking Twitcher who informed me that he had spotted some Spoonbills as well as some King Eider at Instow, which are very rare in Devon apaprently. At that moment in time, I was more interested in spotting a Queen Vic or some other such establishment, being in good need of a sit down and refreshment.

Instow didn't let me down - and there was a well placed pub on the Quay where I could sit outside in the sun, enjoy a pint and watch the world go by. In fact, it was quite difficult to get out of the chair, but having aired my steaming feet and after a complete change of socks- I felt alot better, and started on the last stretch towards Bideford. There was nothing very inspiring about this stretch, and I just got my head down and ate up the miles. The final path into Bideford was across an old bridge over the River Torridge. As I literally limped along the quay at Bideford, I was praying to see the bus stop - and in fact I was even luckier, as there was a bus waiting for me! It was 4:15pm - and I worked out that I had covered 22 miles in 9 hours including stops!

And, I only missed the first 25 mins of the match! Back to Bideford in the morning for the short stint to Westward Ho!
The pic above is the view across the Taw Estuary to Appledor

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