South Walk: Mevagissey to Portloe

Saturday June 6th: Back down to South Cornwall this weekend - caught the early train to St Austell and hopped on a bus to Mevagissey arriving about 9:30 and just when the rain started! Took the opportunity for some Bacon and Egg and a caffeine injection before hitting the path. Last time I was here - it was a sunny Sunday afternoon and Mike Ricketts and I arrived from Charlestown, and the harbour was packed. On a wet Saturday morning, it was mostly local fisherman who were going about their business.

The path left Mevagissey on the road before heading out towards Chapel Point at the southern end of Mevagissey Bay.

Along the way, on the cliffs I spotted a carcass of what must have been a whale washed up on the rocks. Seagulls were tucking into the masses of blubber which were left - I guess it must have been there awhile.

By now, the rain had stopped - but it was a grey old day - and the coast was pretty unspectacular compared to other parts of Cornwall.

The next destination was Gorran Haven, a small picturesque old fishing village with a nice sandy beach, popular with tourists - but it was deserted today. There was a small church in the narrow streets which proved to be a useful place to change back into wet weather gear as the heavens opened again.

I headed out of Gorran towards Dodman Point - one of the highest landmarks along this stretch of coast - it had a massive stone cross at the top - and for the first time, through the gloom I could just make out The Lizard - my very final destination on this whole escapade.

The path descended steeply down to Hemmick beach - a very secluded spot with just one lovely stone cottage right behind the cove - the perfect idyllic hideaway. Further on, I could see a Castle in the distance. I remembered this from a previous trip to Cornwall - it was Caerhays Castle at Porthluney Cove - and even in the wet looked impressive, especially with a herd of Longhorn Cattle in the grounds!

A couple of miles further on were the old fishing villages of East and West Portholland - 2 coves joined at low tide by a large expanse of sand .

The 2 hamlets are very unspoilt with just a Post Office between them - and most of the residences belong to the Caerhays Castle estate who have maintained the area as a working farm community.

By this time - it was early afternoon - and I was soaking wet. I hadn't booked a B&B as I was unsure whether I would carry on to Portscatho or call it a day at Portloe. Apart from a few expensive hotels - there wasn't much accommodation imbetween.

So when I squelched into Portloe, a few miles further on - I had had enough for the day and started to look around for accommodation. The local pub - The Ship Inn looked inviting - so I woke up the landlord and squelched up to view the room in my soaking wet socks. He was a bit pricey - but kindly recommended another place up the road - there were only 2 B&B's in the place apparently. He had a fantastic massive Ebony elephant in the pub, from Sri Lanka - about 2ft tall - I considered trying to buy it off him!

Successfuly booked into Carradale B&B - nice people - and then wandered back to Portloe harbour - it was a very scenic small harbour dominated by the well known and VERY pricey Lugger Hotel. I felt too underdressed to bother going in for a cup of tea - and anyway - the sun had come out by this time - and there were loads of good photo opportunities.

Apparently, Portloe was where they filmed the rather odd TV programme with Dawn French called Wild West - she was an eccentric inbred shopkeeper if I recall.

The evening was spent at The Ship inn - which was very busy - had to wait quite awhile for a table -but the food was OK. When I got back to the B&B - the owner had put my soaking wet boots in the boiler room to dry out - I crashed out and after a snifter too many - also needed drying out!