South Walk: Torcross to Salcombe

Sunday February 1st: I had my own private Taxi service today - Mum and Dad - the forecast was looking a bit dodgy with tremendous winds although staying dry. Having checked it out - it seemed that the wind would be behind me most of the way - but it was pretty cold. So M&D kindly got up a bit earlier than they might normally and we got to Torcross for 9:00am. It was blowing an absolute Hooley - with thunderous seas as Mum joined me on the front at Torcross, struggling to stay upright.


It was a 13 mile walk to Salcombe - one which I wasn't particularly looking forward to given the conditions - but I left Mum holding on to her hat and climbed the steps out of Torcross next to a row of attractive houses and a Cafe which must get pounded every Winter with the full force of the sea. The next point of call was Beesands to be followed by Hallsands. Beesands has a small Ley behind the beach and alongside a scattering of houses. The spray from the pounding seas was blowing a long way inland - so there was no escaping a soaking. I wasn't lingering - so kept full steam ahead across Tinsey Head towards Hallsands. The path here went across the back of the beach which was still being washed by the vigorous waves - so I had to pick my way across at the right time to avoid a soaking. The original site of Hallsands village was right at the seas edge - but was pretty much destroyed by 2 storms in the early 1900's - so is now just ruins which you can get a glimpse of. A new small development of smart marineside properties has been built overlooking the bay with the main village now being slightly inland.

The path headed away from Hallsands up onto the cliffs heading for the Lighthouse of the very prominent Start Point. Here it was actually quite difficult staying upright with the wind blowing straight off the sea.

It was such a horrendous day, weather wise - that I wasn't expecting to see too many weekend walkers - but I did spot a lone car parked at the Start Point Car Park - and a few miles later, met 2 young guys who were hoping to walk to East Prawle and get a bus back! - On a Sunday - not a hope in hell - so I put them straight on that and suggested they would just have to turn round and walk back. I could have walked with them - but to be honest I was wanting to make quick progress - so didn't want to be held up.

From here to East Portlemouth across from Salcombe - is some of South Devon's finest coastline - very dramatic - but would have been so much better if the sun had been shining! Although - a coastal walk in extreme winter conditions is always very exhilirating. The wind was blowing me on from behind which I was glad of as I headed for Lannacombe Bay. I couldn't remember walking this part of the coast before - although I am familiar with most of the South Hams coastpath. I did recognise the Maelcombe House - a very large Estate house with sweeping lawns ending right at the cliff edge- a superb location but very exposed. My next milestone was going to be Prawle Point where there was a Coastwatch Lookout Point. I was ready for some lunch - but needed to find somewhere sheltered as it was so cold in the wind. It was only later in the afternoon when I was back at Thurlestone that Mum said " Why didn't I pop in and see the man at the Coastal Lookout Station" - apparently - he quite likes having visitors - might even have made me a cup of tea! I thought he would have probably told me to bugger off - so I found a large rock to crouch behind instead.

Suitably refreshed and feeling quite cold - I quickly got back in my stride continuing towards Gammon Head and Gara Rock. The former large Gara Rock Hotel is no longer in existence - it used to be a good place to walk to from East Portlemouth on an inland path. The path went around the back of the beach at Gara, Seacombe Sands and from there the path undulated around various rocky points with various small coves towards the mouth of the Salcombe Estuary.

Salcombe is rightly the jewel in the South Hams Tourist crown. It is also the place that we used to come to on holiday back in the 70's - and subsequently having fallen in love with the area - Mum and Dad decided to move lock, stock and barrell to the South Hams, although it is only in recent years that they are now right on the coast. Mill Bay and the beaches in close proximity were always a favourite of mine - catching the ferry across from Salcombe.

As I walked around the point and into the estuary - Salcombe was a welcome sight - and I was hoping that the Ferry would be running. I had made good time - and was over an hour earlier than I thought I would be. The path passed across the back of Mill Bay with views across to North and South Sands - and then went up onto the road into East Portlemouth. I dropped down the steps to the Ferry Point - no sign of any ferry activity - but suddenly at just before 2:00pm a few other people turned up and I could see the Ferry leaving Salcombe. It seemed colder than ever - but probably because I had stopped walking. It was a choppy dash across the estuary - one chap got absolutely soaked by a wave. Once across - I dived into the Harbourside pub and ordered a welcome pint and savoured the log fire. Phoned Mum and Dad who were very suprised that I had arrived back already and by the time they arrived to pick me up - I was in a little cafe enjoying a hot Cappuccino.