I planned to stay at Branscombe overnight, although it had proved tricky finding a suitably priced B&B - but would sort it out en route. So transport wise - decided to leave the car at Exeter and made my way to Charmouth via train to Axminster and then the Bus. Got back on the trail at 10.00am - although the original coast path between Charmouth and Lyme is actually closed due to insecure cliffs, so had to head out of Charmouth the same way that I had just come in by Bus. The path then headed through some woods and across Lyme Regis Golf Course. It was a nice bright morning, albeit pretty windy and fresh.
Lyme Regis viewed from approach from Charmouth
It didn't take long to reach Lyme.
This is a place I know well. As a family we had holidays here, mind you that was 40 years ago! - but also I have some former work colleagues from my days with the Star Newspaper Group who live here, and in fact I was here last August to celebrate the marriage of my friend Peter Greenwood's daughter, Rebecca, and also, on the same night - the 60th birthday of my old boss Philip Evans, - a former Mayor of Lyme Regis, no less, and there have been numerous boozy occasions in Lyme over the years, it has to be said.
I took the opportunity to pop into a new shop that had been opened earlier in the year by renowned Westcountry photographer Richard Austin, who I had worked with at the Star and also met up with at Philip's wedding. He has some stunning photos and has become somewhat of a local celebratory with the publication of his "Animal Magic" books and TV appearances.
The walk along Lyme seafront is always a nice one and there were plenty of people enjoying the sunny morning. The sea was pretty fierce and crashing up around the famous Cob.
From Lyme, the path moves back up onto the cliffs before entering the Landslip nature reserve, a 7 mile winding path through woods, with only a few viewpoints of the sea. It was atrociously muddy and difficult walking, but I didn't hang about - and made good progress finally reaching the outskirts of Seaton at lunchtime, crossing yet another Golf course and dropped down to head for the Seafront.
Received a text from Stevie J at Peninsular - to say that Arsenal were beating Man U by 2-0 in the lunchtime Sky game. So as I was being blown along Seaton seafront and spotted a bar with Sky - it was a no brainer to pop in for a quick refresher. It was packed of course, and as usual I proved to be a rather unusual sight for the locals, with my mud spattered legs and backpack. I should really have arranged to meet up with friends Peter and Ann Greenwood who live in Seaton, and had offered to put me up, when I was passing through - but I'd left it too late and didn't want to land on them unannounced , so decided to carry on through to Branscombe. I had by this time, made several phonecalls to a Farmhouse B&B in Branscombe to no avail - so still without accommodation fixed, I headed on for Beer, which was just over the cliffs from Seaton. The weather was a bit unsettled now.
Beer is a very quaint place - pretty unspoilt and a good old fishing village. The walk from Beer to Branscombe is one that I have done on many occasions and is very scenic. By now, the wind had really got up and it was "hold you hat" time. I took the lower cliff path which takes you past all the chalets and mobile homes which are wonderfully positioned on the approach to Branscombe Mouth.
I have always fancied owning one of those.
Eventually, I reached Branscombe, legs pretty weary - another 14 mile stretch done. The Farmhouse B&B had got the decorators in - but had mentioned a place near the mouth. Branscombe village itself is up a steep hill which I could have done without, so I poked my head into the "Seaside B&B" a beautiful thatched building. The accommodation was superb but pricey to match. I tried to haggle with the price, but having been shown a suite with a bathroom bigger than my lounge and a lovely big bath - I decided to treat myself. The chap showing me round explained that it was his wife's business, so he couldn't negotiate for fear of instant death, which I could appreciate. It did occur to me that his wife would have probably taken one look at me and said that they were fully booked!
As it turned out, I was the sole occupant. My biggest problem was trying not to leave a trail of mud around the place, as everywhere was pristine. Had a relaxing evening - a great meal at the Masons Arms and fell asleep in front of Match of the Day. Some things never change.
Sunday November 9th - I was the first one down for breakfast, which wasn't difficult as I was the only resident! Met the owners wife who seemed very pleasant - turned out that thay have only recently refurbished the place and were quite new to it all. I told her, she would probably have to refurbish my room again, and she laughed manically! I didn't hang about and quickly got back on the trail, as I knew I was going to be in for some rain later. It was dry but very windy and the first big hill out of Branscombe was a bit of a struggle, but I soon got in my stride. The stretch to Sidmouth seemed to consist of several "Mouths" which had to be descended into and then climbed out of!
About mid morning - I could see that the heavens were going to open any minute, and the sensible thing would have been to get into the wet weather gear before it started - but no - I waited until it was heaving and then had to find a spot under a tree to attempt to put my waterproof trousers on!
-which involved taking boots off, sitting down - a right palava in the pouring rain. The next hour was pretty uncomfortable - I was wet on the outside and wet with sweat on the inside, but I got my head down and before long I had reached Salcombe Regis, at the edge of Sidmouth.
If it had been a decent day, the view across to Sidmouth was a nice one. I'm pretty familiar with Sidmouth, having worked there for several years in what seems a former life. It is a very pleasant place to work, even in the Summer, apart from when the International Folk Festival is on. During that particular week, it is difficult to concentrate on work, with a succession of Morris Dancers prancing
through the streets with their ridiculous bells and gay attire. Apart from the Morris Dancers, who in my opinion, should be locked away for their own good, the Festival is a superb event which attracts people from all over the Country and Internationally renowned acts from all over the world.After descending Salcombe Hill - I was eventually on Sidmouth seafront and the waves were pounding in as the weather took another turn for the worse. I had intended to carry on to Budleigh Salterton, but it looked pretty black in that direction and with time against me, I decided to head for the bus stop. My car was back at Exeter and I didn't have to wait long for the bus.
The Silly Season at work was now in full swing - so will be hanging the boots up for a few weeks and putting my Calendar head on!
No comments:
Post a Comment