Tuesday 5 August 2008

SOUTH WALK:- The Start - Only 602 miles to go ....

Saturday August 2nd:- After boring everyone for months with my idea to celebrate reaching the half century - by doing something a bit different - I have finally started my SW Coast Path walk and will now continue to bore you with blogs and numerous pictures of cliffs, beaches, large areas of blue sea, and other coastal attractions. The idea is of course to raise some money for a good cause - so I hope you will also visit my Charity Page - check out the Widgety Didgety Wotchamacallit Doofer link which is at the top right hand corner of this page. My chosen Charity is The David Shepherd Wildlife Foundation - who work on environmental projects throughout the world. Their Patrons include David Attenborough, Dame Judi Dench , Gary Lineker, David Gower, Phil Collins - a good line up for "A Question of Sport" ! There are some useful links at the bottom of this page.


I actually started at what officially, is the finish of the SW Coast Path - South Haven Point - just across the water from Sandbanks, Nr Poole. It was Saturday morning - August 2nd - raining persistently of course. Note the splodgy drops of rain on the accompanying pics! I was joined by my old friend, Mike Ricketts and his brother-in-law Paul Foreman who together with his wife, Karen very kindly put me up for the weekend. Not only that but Karen was our Daily Taxi service - so many thanks to them both and to Mike for arranging it. The plan was for all 3 of us to walk all day Saturday and see how far we could get - and then start again from the same place Sunday- well that was the plan!

The first part of the walk was across the beach at Studland Bay - a notorious haven for Naturists apparently. How many naked bodies did we see - not a single wrinkled winkle - not a single sagging mammary, but then it was 8:30am in the morning and pouring with rain! ! - still after that disappointment we cracked on up onto the cliffs, passing the dramatic Old Harrys Rocks, and after several miles, our spirits were bolstered by arriving in Swanage ( and how often does that happen!) where we had a quick coffee stop and lo and behold Mr Sun put his hat on! On the path down to Swanage - we had passed a young lady in a hurry. She was on her final stretch to complete the whole path, having started on june 16th - 6 weeks flat out - about 15 miles/ day which seemed pretty good going.

As we started to climb out of Swanage and onto the dramatic cliffs of the Jurassic Coast, my good friend Mike , started to suffer from blisters, a bad knee, itchy bottom - you name it - he had it. Nothing to do with the fact that the following day was the Hungarian F1 Grand Prix , I'm sure! For Paul, however - this was literally a walk in the park. Having spent 20yrs in the forces, Paul had always been fit - but has recently taken part in the Dorset Doddle - a race from Weymouth to Swanage - just a mere 31 miles - and also completed The Three Peaks challenge. That involves walking up and down Snowdon, Scafell and Ben Nevis in the same day!!! He and his daughter Harriet, completed the challenge and also raised £1000 for a local charity - brilliant. Paul is not only fit but also well prepared - so Mike's blister was soon patched up and we cracked on through Durlston Country Park and headed for a well known landmark - Dancing Ledge where the waves "Dance" over a flat ledge in which has been carved a small swimming pool!

It was a beautiful afternoon - the sun cream was plastered on and we headed for Winspit and St Aldhelm's Head. At Winspit - Mike veered off and limped inland to Worth Matravers where there was a Pub and a possible cream tea! Resisting the urge to follow, Paul and I carried on, our end target for the day was Chapmans Pool beyond St Aldhelms Head, which was close by to a Car Park - hence the ideal picking up point!

Along this stretch of coast - there are numerous old quarries and remains of war time buildings. Also Tilly Whim caves - long since closed to the Public. Tilly was apparently the name of a former Quarry worker - and a Whim was the name of the wooden hoist used to move the Quarry stone into the waiting boats.

The view towards Chapmans Pool Bay was superb and we rounded the headland to reach the path inland to our meeting place at West Hill. We had walked 16 miles - that felt like quite enough to me, for the first day. Our "Taxi Service" arrived pretty much spot on time - and we headed to Corfe for a well earned Cream tea - the first, but definitely not the last of the walk!

DAY 2
Paul and I were up at 6:30am - ready for an early start - no rain - but damp and misty. As for Mike - he carried on snoring - victim of the Dodgy F1 Knee. The plan today was to try and reach Lulworth Cove . We drove to West Hill, left the car to be picked up later, and by 8:00am were back on the very damp path with the outstanding views obscured by the mist. We were going to walk a modest 12 miles - but along the way - there were several demanding climbs and this section of the path was described as "Severe" by my SW Coast Path handbook. The first climb got rid of the previous day's aches and pains. The initial part of the walk was along a stretch known as the Kimmeridge Ledge where the dramatic cliff are composed of Kimmerdige Clay, a blue-gray shale traversed with distinctive bands of cementstone and a 3ft thick band of bituminous oil shale.
Slightly off putting was the fact that the path was not only quite close to the sheer cliff drop in places - but also had massive cracks all along it . That section of the path is disappearing into the sea on a regular basis apparently. I shall recommend it to Mike, as a walk that he MUST do!
Just before we reached Kimmerdige - we passed Clavel's Tower - a lighthouse shaped folly from the 1800's - it has now been dismantled brick by brick and moved back 25 yards from the crumbling cliff top. It will soon be a superb Self catering unit - completely isolated on the cliff top.
Kimmeridge itself was a hive of activity. The Dorset Wildlife Trust were setting up for a "Seafest" day - celebrating Marine Life . Kimmeridge has an excellent Marine centre - and years ago had a thriving shell fish industry. What it doesn't have is a single bench or seat of any kind - so we sat on a wet log and refuelled.
The next point of interest was a "Nodding donkey" a small oil well - which apparently was once the most productive on-shore field in Britain. And then we entered the Lulworth Army range - a part of the coastal path which is sometimes closed - but always accessible at weekends.
At some point we bumped into a few fellow walkers - there weren't many as it was a pretty foul day - but one of them tagged along with us - a "diamond geezer of a cockney" called Ray. It turned out that he was training for a trip to Everest Base Camp! - so he was walking most weekends - up to 8hrs at a time - and this particular stretch of coast was ideal - with several short but "Everest" like climbs - although slightly lacking in snow, and despite advertising extensively, he had yet to find a Sherpa to hire!
Ray walked with us all the way to Lulworth Cove - and seemed pretty fit already for a 56yr old.
One of the most scenic areas was around Mupe Bay, and then we walked along what is known as the "Fossil Forest" - where you can see large fossilised tree stumps all along the beach - and ammonites are quite common. Millions of years ago - this area was an inland lagoon surrounded by forest apparently - all very well documented at Lulworth Cove Information Centre - a popular Tourist spot - which we reached at about 13:00pm after tramping across the pebble beach - always a killer!
Our "Taxi Service" arrived - slightly late - so wont use them again. Mars Bars and coffee all round went down a treat and the first part of my walk was over - 28 miles - we worked out that we had walked about 2.5 miles / hr - across quite a varied part of the coast - so knowing that I can now more easily plan my start and stop points.
There will be no "Taxi Service" in the depths of Cornwall.
Next walk will be from the START of the path - up in Minehead - where I shall be heading for Lynemouth. - I'll keep you posted!

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

Excellent idea, and very appropriate that you spotted a few other fossils en route.

Look forward to the next entry - but less nudity next time please!

Anonymous said...

Really enjoyed the walking!! Ed got ticks, unfortunately. Here's a warning to anyone else planning to walk with Phil: keep your distance if he is using his sticks as there is a serious risk of being impaled or having your eye put out!! Don't be deterred though, it's fun!